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ATLAS'09. DAY 6. BOUMALNE-Todra Gorge-Imilchil. ATLAS'09

Stage 6. BOUMALNE-Todra Gorge-Imilchil. 150 kms

Last day trip, but before I show a couple of snapshots of the previous stage, falling into the gorges of Dades, which I had left out.

As I said, last day, and as was predicted, it rained. To begin 30 to 40 kms of lines ending in semi desert wilderness through endless lines. We could have lengthened the internal path to the south, but the presence of rain discouraged us, plus it was a low mountain area, and I personally did not feel unattractive.


We arrived to the Todra, something more spectacular than the Dades, but also more saturated with people, with hotels, hostels, huge car parks, markets, etc. The walls are filled with climbing routes and, in general, these gorges are places of mass tourism. Better scoot As before, I thought.

already left us to return to Imilchil, for clues in works for many miles. It seems that they were paving a good way, that is, the off road soon pass into history as this route is concerned. The course of the day was even more bland than the previous. Unremarkable.


We reached the hotel at 2 pm. Ate and started packing. It was a day of dogs, cloudy, almost drizzling, with an icy wind had shaken the market stalls Berber we had at hand. In the room, cold and wet, it could be, or was very sheltered at best with a lot of clothes and his head and ears well covered:

As

hotel had plenty of time and could not be, I loaded the bags in some of the cookies and candies that I had and walked the bike to a nearby village where they handed out these little things among the small fry. This must be done carefully, because once you around a dozen or more kids and you're struggling to maintain order while handing out cookies and to leave there. "Development of begging? "Solidarity cheap? Everyone I think as you want.


back to the hotel, while preparing the trailer, we perceive that a car wheel was punctured. The director and only employee of our hotel amarok led to a mechanic you trust to fix the tire. The mechanic had an air compressor like any tool, I think, and we made a fudge to get by. The repair charge I think it was a couple of cans of beer. We commend not injecting and not have to use this wheel repaired and approximately 4.30 am we got up and started return to Ceuta. Amarok drove for hours through endless curves and mountain passes, fording included midnight, and arrived at Ceuta on the 6 pm, not before us run out of oil in the middle of highway. Fortunately, the nearest gas station was a mile, that walking is covered in a heartbeat. When a server returned with the container filled with oil, it started raining, "typical, no? The calamities that often happen to a motorcycle regularly (flat tire, running out of petrol) the car passed us, how lucky ours.


To go running out, a souvenir photo of one of the best moments of the road trip, looking at the horizon and thinking about going back someday:

One Piece Hot Galleries

150 kms. DAY 5. AL-Ksiba-Imilchil-Dades Gorge-BOUMALNE.

DAY 5. AL-Ksiba-Imilchil-Dades Gorge-BOUMALNE.

280 kms.

Penultimate day of our particular raid. That morning lifted if it was a heroism. I was a generalized muscle contracture, and my partner the same. The first stirrings of our members were very painful and get soaking wet socks for 3rd straight day, making contact with reality rather than unpleasant.

The roadmap was reached to Imilchil mountain road (120 kms), repair bikes and stock up on food and clothing, and then down to the gorges of Dades. So with the first light of dawn, and with giving it full sun in his eyes, threw for asphalt to complete this link negligible. Amarok Imilchil Once repaired his rear brake, and I changed the oil to the bike or if there were any remaining moisture river incident.

Maintenance.

The hotel was not very good, but you were working the park on foot room. This gave us a great time in the midday sun and now we went dark for a season. Once the maintenance of the donkeys, bugger off, well, track and road Dades blanket.

last few brake adjustments in full Imilchil main avenue, and direct the most arid and pre-desert of our trip.

Again the rear brake.

Before we knew it we were rolling on a plateau devoid of any sign of vegetation. Agoudal previously spent, according to some, the highest population of Morocco, 2450 meters above sea level.

Aridity.

again ascended. In a refrigerator at 4 Swedes we are one of their BMWs stuck, but we asked for help, and we continue to complete the port Tizi n'Ouerz, the culmination of the trip to 2920 meters.

Near Tizi n'Ouerz.

This is a fairly busy road, crowded compared to what we found so far during the day and we passed at least 4 motorcycle gangs and many more of 4x4s. The car drivers something cocoons sometimes do not even overtaking facilitators were clearly slower than you, and some even when you were itching to overtake. This is what has overcrowding, as everyone knows, any fool is mounted in a pileup of these and behaves like a fool. Best were the 4 previous days, alone in the mountains.

descend to the valley of Dades always to our left.

depth.

Falling stretches for several kilometers until you reach the bottom.

Near the bottom.

timidly raises in the valley green.

Huertas.

From here the landscape is softened and we moved always among orchards and meadows with their villages. The track became tarmac and hotels proliferated on both sides of the road. Here tourism is felt.

Kasbah.

Finally we come to the gorges of Dades, a narrow where the river flows boxed for a little over a hundred meters between vertical walls of considerable height. A scenically remarkable no doubt, but unexciting compared with experiments on the peaks and torrents of 1000 kms done now.

in the throat.

And from here left us reach Boulmane. As there was still light, amarok decided to make a piece of the "route of the Rose." The route ran along a promenade on and we get there a few kilometers, but the sun gave us in the face permanently and, considering that this had rather little incentive, we turned around and went a little way to find hotel Boumalne. The accommodations of the city were full of Pascuero, already had a little higher than this route is somewhat crowded, so amarok led them to a hotel and camping on the outskirts where we stayed comfortably for little money.

Relax.

This hotel was indecently "luxury" to the kind of route we had done that day. If you were not or tired or anything, we sweated almost. Is that until the temperature was mild, and that "only" had descended to 1600 meters. I began to yearn for the hardships and sufferings of bygone days. This time had to socks, did not add anything here, everything was becoming too easy, predictable, vulgar. To dinner I learned a lot worse than that of those nights where I had to walk to the restaurant dressed in boots with numb feet and almost dripping, aching all over his body and clothes and nostrils filled with the dust of the road .

Bad Casof Ingrown Hair

ATLAS'09. DAY 4. Cathedral Rock (MESSTEFRAN) - AL-Ksiba.

STEP 4. Cathedral Rock (MESSTEFRAN) - AL-Ksiba.
280 kms.

That night we slept like logs beside the river Assif Melloul in Gite d'etape de La Cathedrale in Imi n Warg. A gite d'etape is a kind of shelter prepared for tourists. Are generally well signposted when you cross the people and us, we casually this by Night: http://www.ismalar.org/rutas/servicios.php?id=14 #


get out of bed this morning ... could not. At normal stiffness had to add those of the triceps and biceps, pushing both crushed by the snowdrifts. We started to put on the armor, I took time to renew the strips and tapes to protect the wound that I was doing on the left instep. Then I pulled on socks soaking wet from the previous two days (not carrying spare, remember that we planned to have returned to base Imilchil the day before) and we got on the bikes. Before out a fellow who was staying at the hostel and told us that the path we wanted to go (through direct Imilchil Anergui) was impracticable because of the river following the course of the planned track was quite grown up. Still decided to try and pull up track following the course of Assif Melloul through a canyon:

Bridge sobfre the Melloul.

After about 10 kms we had to turn around, as the track continued just above the river bed, that is, the track was possible only in times of drought. Refuted the way to find asphalt and headed by an endless road that skirted the swamp of days prior to the gas station Ouaouizarht. We were in the km 80 to about 800 meters. Look at the profile of what lay ahead of us and you will understand why over the same day we helarnos suffocating heat or cold.

We left the tarmac and get back to track. The first approach to reach Imilchil had been frustrated by excessive river flow, but Amarok improvised a second alternative route. Another time we were at these summits:

Altiplano.

The snowy landscape with the sun was to be astonished, and if you go on a bike up even more:

Great day.

That day we reached the 2500 meters high, is still continuing as usual. About 160 km begin a descent through muddy caminuchos soon became suitable only for pedestrian paths, donkeys and motorbikes. We crossed a very poor village and continue along the trail fording rivers of rigor:

video without end.

The trail was getting more entertaining:

sandy trail.

The photo stream we crossed a few times. A guy gave us a wire getting in the water several times to show the depth of each ferry. This stream was of a pull switch giving gas, fortunately. The trail narrowed. Here I was about to start hitting the bags the stone blocks that lined the path. And you forget you are carrying.

Beware saddlebags.

At one point the trail dove into the creek and we doubt of whether it would continue or not. Amarok, using the lingo traveler-English English-French, began to ask a mother and daughter were there and came to the conclusion that there was a "bypass" that uphill overcome the obstacle. Shortly after horsemen mounted on donkeys we confirmed the existence of such a diversion and there we went. Trialed by sandy hills returned to the trail and wading:

Streams.

The thing went like: Path, soaking sporadic, some hamlet or dump as Taghzout. crosses dubious people out to help and guidance as soon as you astray .... at the end do not know who to believe, there are people who help in good faith, others will bundle, especially the kids.

The road increasingly blurred.

Imilchil was near, I estimate that about 50 kms. The proximity of our base camp and looking forward to it to rest, change clothes and recuperate blinded us and made a mistake that almost cost us a serious disappointment.
The muddy stream that had accompanied us during the last 10 kms disappeared and we came face to face with a mighty river and agitated waters. Beautiful, yes, but we had to wade intermittently. Several children and an adult pointed to the show and we are willing to offer, we are about to ritual and routine to cross rivers to spray and pray. Then the issue becomes complicated and Berber gets into the river to tell us the least bad area. When we saw that the water came almost to the very in some places began to see the ugliest thing normal, but I, upset by the closeness of Imilchil, took chest and went straight to get soaked. The three crossed the river with my bike 2 times, but here was when we started to see the ears of the wolf. The following questions posed quite serious wading, and John and went to make Berber gorge upstream to see what awaited us, lest it be that we were playing for nothing type.

Exploring the strait.

After a while back and amarok, with a face, it assumes that have to turn around, that the videos are even worse following and we have made a preposterous heroics with my bike across to that place. We turn my DRZ and we conjure to return without that wrecked the bike. While the first ford crossing, but the second and final would assume our baptism in the Atlas, and not just metaphorical. A point to get across the engine bay, for whatever reason (entered water filter housing, a cable got wet, I was clumsy with the clutch current ....), tipped the bike, sliding amarok , Berber and I endured, but the current sweeps us, amarok recovers and we get to stop the bike in extremis (a few meters from the river swept by a cascade). In those seconds, crossed my mind at breakneck speed film of the 4 day trips and more likely to escape painful walk from the spot after leaving the bike submerged at the bottom of that river. We take heart of grace, the bike and try to straighten it out in front against the current of 3, but the water was stronger than us and dragged downstream. We understood that we had to give up or not go out of there, step by step and joining forces reached the shore. Now all that remained was to assess damage and see if that tore or touched overnight in a wild place:

Drying clothes and bike.

We put dry losrestos the wreck: mobiles, cameras, passports, documentation, all of our fortune in dirhams, boots, socks, etc. Dismantle bags, seat, storage and access to the spark plug. We empty the float chamber just in case and it appears that the water there had not arrived. We give the starter a few times, mounted spark plug and try to boot, but no way. I wonder how long it would repeat this cycle start and rest, always careful not to exhaust the battery, maybe a half hour, but eventually the engine began to give some explosions and ended up starting, yuhuu, when collecting photography:

ripped!

By the way, if someone sees the photos and believes he would find out there, I guarantee you is wrong. River was a very brave, capable of carrying 3 adults and a motorcycle loaded with 140 kilos, with an irregular bottom V-shaped stones in motion rather large and well-rounded slippery and a remarkable depth. Add to this that you are tired and do not know very well the field, the dip in the medium term is warranted. Was it a folly?


All this time we were accompanied by the Berbers, who just wanted a cigarette, and 4 lads that tireless, well-expected buestro our resurrection or neglect. Here in the picture when still did not know that the DRZ tear:

Pending.

Before leaving presented them with some mint gum. You should have seen the face of one of the boys when he noticed in the mouth that burst of freshness characteristic of these holes. No doubt it was the first time I tasted one in your life.


This photo I fell into grace. Do not know if his intention was to get some bauble or employ any of our belongings in an unguarded moment. In this life you have lived in this remote place, 2000 meters high and barefoot.

Berber.

to us that day, wet and not eating well, we can only undo the sandy road that path with its corresponding wading, of course, and find somewhere to get dry, sleep and be nurtured. For the second consecutive day Imilchil return was impossible, the third day of heavy snowfalls, and the room for excess water. At the moment we had to re-ascend to 2500 meters to cool a bit more (km 190) and rethink the route. In the photo, Amarok, the genius of gps, seeking out less complicated:

again in the highlands.

port descend the right track quickly and after a few kilometers of asphalt, near dusk we reach Al = Ksiba, big city with many amenities. After 280 kms with different penalties just want to sleep, but the only hotel open in the town tell us that there is no room. We sent to another shelter but it is closed. We return to the original hotel. Amarok insists and finally a Moroccan who speaks English said that we accept. Identified as motard and understand our situation, we also explains that we can leave our Scooters ¨ ¨ in the hotel car park. The room, cutrecilla, as always. For dinner, amarok and I, we get under his belt size XL paths Russian salads more chicken with potatoes and beer in the country (not often have it in many places). And hence, the bed. Another day how are you two last and do not know if we had endured. Outclassed and 1000 kms in 4 days accumulated.

And to finish this day, a photo of my bike, which I almost lost submerged

in this river:

Eczema Outbreak What To Do

ATLAS'09. DAY 3: damnata - CATHEDRAL ROCK. ATLAS'09

DAY 3: damnata - LE CATHEDRAL. 200 kms.

We woke up the other day and found that during the night it rained a bit and also fog. The thing does not look good.

What a day.

breakfast at the hotel with coffee with milk, butter, jam and bread in abundance. I'll take a few crumbs of this bread, and so I get in the saddle, at the end of what little they would eat on this day, one of the 2-stage queens. We ignored the palizones that lies ahead. Look at the mileage is very low compared to previous days, well this time of night made us completely when were still on the bikes.

In theory, the route of the day we had to carry Imilchil, our base, but the snow complicated the path we start slowing down too much. The track was really unruly, without refueling and with a forecast of about 325 kms. To complete my self bought 4 bottles of 1.5 liters of water, emptied and got 3 in my wallet and the other gently took her amarok.

A few more miles on pavement and the fog slowly dissipates as we ascend. A bit of runway to take Tilsghet, Amarok tries to get out of a groove pretty deep, is diverted and slammed into the mountain, exploding gas bottle partially carrying. Take this opportunity to refuel, so badly wrong I close the tank, and about 5 kms later found to have been spilled over one liter of "sans plomb". Autonomy was already declining.

Raising the Tizi n'Amarskine (2000 m) following a track very tiresome and down the south side with a great valley to our right through which ran the Assif n'Zawyat.

The valley of Assif n'Zawyat to our right.

descend to the valley and then a serious wading near the village of Imi n'Ouaqqa. Kick me to see the depth and see that there is a narrow corridor before the cataract that forms the dam where you can pass safely. The photo looks like a bullshit, but it was not, a wrong step and you were going to the waterfall or to the depths.

The n'Ouaqqa Imi ford.

a server here getting a little too soaking:

Careful.

began a long climb per track with views of snowcapped peaks most impressive of the whole trip. Here we could have done fantastic photos, but we could not stop him. Observe the insignificance of the bike compared to Mountains:

immensity of the Atlas.

The track started to become a path with some steps distressing to the edge of vertiginous cliffs. I fell a couple of times at very low speed, and I admit that I was a little nervous about the heights and depths, curious because this is the kind of endurance that 've always done, but here the landscape dimensions imposed much respect.

And the way?

Is Here?

Finally, the trail disappears because of a landslide and we are forced to retrace our steps, but not before getting stuck in a couple of steps we have to solve Trialeras helping each other. Fortunately then Amarok is a track that allows us to link with the planned route. Still climb more and we reached the ceiling of the first part of the route, without a doubt the km 37 to 2000 meters of altitude:

overhead.

started to descend into a valley of red sandstone with abundant vegetation in the river valleys. The scenery is spectacular, the most beautiful of the whole trip, but we are entangled by the villagers of Tarbat n'Tirsal, perched on the mountainside, with "streets" crossed by canals ... and unfortunately no time to do poses. I particularly like this photo:

Tarbat n'Tirsal.

We left the maze of canals and back down hill to climb another hill. We snowfields from more or less effort. In some snow drifts reached considerable thickness, if we add that is squishy ...

Coping in the snowfield.

As we feared, we came across a snowfield harder normal, with a drop of about 3 meters rather ugly. Amarok insists on an alternative route across country to go around, and after about 100 meters of boulders and shrubs and as directed by a spontaneous, we return to the track diagonally hair down to this rocky area where with a bit of visual acuity is sensed go down the route where the bikes:

In the scree.

finally crowned the Tizi n'Tghist, at km 60 of track at 2500 meters:

Tizi n'Tghist.

The decline quickie to another valley, following after a road with lots of gravel. We planted on a plateau full of villages that succeeded one another, with dozens and dozens of children who met and jalearnos. I recognize that many of these crossings acelerábamos has more than just to escape the crowds that overwhelmed us with their cries and gestures.

Shortly after this series of crossings spliced few miles of tracks and great for tacking clay drift to sack a pity that the weight of the panniers and backpack sometimes you extend the skidding was too much and you looked forced to calm down ... temporarily, of course.

About Abachkou.

In this plateau a truck to a crawl blocking our progress, and Amarok he fell in the middle of overtaking, fortunately without serious consequences. We began to address the special category of port a day, 130 km stage, at 2700 meters altitude, just after spending Iglouane. Climbed by a good track until the exit a corner we came across a snow field about 50 meters long, uphill, with some threatening cliff side bending and right. Amarok was too complicated and tried to find an alternative, but ultimately we take courage and to throw up front, but not before patearnos the path to see what surprises awaited us a few meters later.

exploration.

Amarok took a long walk to get to the top, when I took the opportunity to eat some bread supplies were already going wrong, do not calculate well the issue of food. Once back informing me that the snow ends a little higher and it is feasible to proceed. Between the two started up my bike, but for every inch forward (uphill) sweat China ink.

a respirator.

height and begin to affect the effort and begin to experience the first symptoms of a transient slut. I remember that half had a tree snowfield where to stop strategically to protect from the sun and reach that place was like going to an oasis in the desert.

The Jbel Azourki (3677), my bike and me.

As you can see here a slip to the bottom could be tragic. The fact is that finally we both bikes and we continued the climb up a small hill, where we realized that we had the cinnamon: a few hundred yards up a truck to us on a track not covered by the gps. Look how happy she got Amarok:

Explosion of joy

take this opportunity to take photos of stunning scenery Atlas bottom and up again.

Jbel Wawgoulzat in the distance.

The road continued to climb, sometimes with snow fields we passed by a miracle, but not so tired as before. Since we were warm, the day progressed, and Amarok Coroners assumed that once the port going to have more problems, because the decline would be on the north face and the snow was blocking our way again. What to do? Continue to see it, obviously. We reached the top and this is what we find, the Tizi n'Tirghist blocked.

Tizi n'Tirghist (2300 m).

A barrier of impassable snow over 2 feet high. We started thinking and my bike went through the stone corridor to the left, and amarok from the right, down and up between boulders and then sliding on the snow field in slight decline. By now already beginning to dominate some driving techniques in snow.

the other side of the barrier.

Once the barrier of snow, the scene that unfolded before our eyes was that of a desolate runway surrounded by mountains dotted here and there over glaciers. Again the uncertainty of whether we would be able to get somewhere in these conditions we faced. The slut is felt more and as we were getting the idea that one day there we arrived at our base in Imilchil or accident. We were only at km 130, raising the Tizi n'Tsalli, at 2700 meters high, tired of pushing the bikes, with wet feet permanently from the previous day, hungry, and the evening began to fall. Naively thought that the distance we had left port could not be as bad as the slope by which we climb, basically because we were able to repeat such efforts, but soon to begin a short descent, we were stuck in the same scrubbed.

narrow lane near Tizi n'Tsalli.

here for the first time we saw traces of other bikes. Apparently two colleagues had preceded us and on the basis of marked paths, the snow had borne the brunt of their machines. Without doubt they had spent days before or early in the morning with more solid snow, because ours is sinking hopelessly. However, we encourage you to try to cross the snow field of the previous picture at full throttle in second and more or less got it. At other times you could not get momentum and you get stuck without reference:

A civilian who was walking by those peaks (aperece always someone in the most inhospitable) assured us that we could continue with the bikes without any problems for that track. For the problems were similar to those of the last 3 hours, but generally downhill, or that things improved slightly. In short, more of the same, and the temperature dropping.

without fin.Tizi n'Illissi Snow.

The shadows lengthened and the sun went down. Water reserves are gone and before us lay the snowy path than ever. In the picture you can distinguish amarok progress in this white hell:

increasingly white.

The thing was better as we went down and the track became increasingly clear. Here we begin to see the end of the tunnel.

Fed up with snow.

A drop quickie in 5th gear warm as possible and return to the liquid element, to remind us that we had your feet wet and icy:

After the snow, torrents.

Look what were the shadows lengthened. We ended the day and we were not anywhere. Meninges amarok wringing here to go somewhere that night under the watchful eyes of a boy who appeared there:

Consulting GPS.

More photos, attention to the peaks that surrounded us:

white pyramid.

And I here to warm up. The warmth of the sun had passed. Now hands were well chilled. Gloves and winter in the hotel!

Sheltered to the fullest.

For good tracks to go down fast green valleys that had nothing to do with the frozen landscape that had accompanied us for most of the day. Night was falling as we went through those tracks released by facile. Finally it was dark and, inevitably, had to find a place to camp. After that palizón, without food or drink, ice cream and soaked, played sleep uncomfortably. I would not resign and asked that if there appeared amarok a village near its gps and eureka!, There was a shelter there, about 2 kms!! We arrived and the candlelight we are looking for a double room rather narrow and gloomy, without light or water or anything, but valid to sleep. Above gave us hot dinner. Blessed blessed food and bedding.